Pete_T
From St Peters, Birstall
I've been playing acoustic guitar now for 14 years or so. The main reason I started was the guitarist left our music group so I picked up the guitar, learnt the chords we needed for the next service, and went from there. So chord wise I don't have any issues playing what the letters tell me. I'm pretty compotent with different rhythms and softer picking or simple finger picking.
But I know very little theory and I am woefully inadequate at anything even vaguely approching lead guitar work or using any chord shapes up the neck (CAGED type stuff). I can do the slidy E shape and the slidy A type thing, but thats it.
So I need to learn theory and technique.
In essence, I want to become better at the fancy bits. I can belt out a song for church or housegroups on acoustic and just about keep a tune. It's fine for me leading worship but I want to be able to support others by playing electric and being at the back. Lessons are a no go at the moment with the extra cost they would entail. So basically, has anyone got any suggestions of websites, books, or dvds that I could use which aren't too basic but not too hard either? I looked at a couple and after six lessons of stuff I knew found it hard to motivate myself any further.
I also need to build up dexterity in my left hand and accuracy in my right if I'm ever going to manage to play for more than ten minutes without getting cramp. Any suggestions are most welcome.
Thanks!
I can understand your lack of motivation after reading lessons on things you already knew. Unfortunately, with theory especially, to really grasp and make sure you're learning it properly it is necessary to start at the very beginning and take it from there - you may even find some gaps in your knowlegde that you weren't aware of!
Lessons with a qualified teacher are always the best option, but you've stated that they're not possible at this point. So, here are some books and other resources I can recommend:
'The Jazz Theory Workbook ' by Mark Levine (contrary to what the title suggests, it's not just a jazz book).
'Chord Chemistry' by Ted Greene.
'The Right Way To Read Music' by Baxter & Baxter (there's a real classical bent to this book, so when you get into the particularly advanced territory it may be best to put it down if you don't think it applies).
Guitar Techniques magazine is good if you'd consider yourself intermediate and approaching advanced, and Total Guitar is okay if you'd consider yourself more of a beginner. Take the latter with a pinch of salt though, as it's sometimes inaccurate in the information it gives.
In terms of a structured 'study plan' I think the RGT grade exam handbooks are absolutely the best around - they're available in electric (from preliminary to grade 8), acoustic (from initial to grade 8) and classical (from step 1 to grade 8) disciplines. They contain scale and chord shapes, theory, rhythm and lead playing exercises, aural work, etc. They are designed to be used in conjunction with lessons from a qualified teacher, like most books worth the price, but can work adequately on their own provided you use supplementary materials such as those mentioned above. They can all be purchased as a full set at a discounted price.
Most if not all of the above books are avilable from www.booksforguitar.com or www.musicroom.com or of course there's always Amazon or eBay!
As well as all the above, feel free to send me an email with any specific questions (or vague ones for that matter!) and I'll be happy to help you out. I do this for a living, so don't worry - I know what I'm talking about!
I'm interested in using those RGT acoustic books to broaden my own playing, Neil. A few questions:
1) Whilst being designed for use with a tutor, could they be used for self-study?
2) I've been playing for 20 years and leading worship competently for 15. Which grade should I start at? The beginning? The descriptions of each book don't give much away as to their contents.
3) Assuming I could study with the books on my own, how would I go about taking an official exam and getting each grade?
4) Being short of tutoring funds like Pete, would this series of books be a good way to teach myself and broaden my musical knowledge, or is there a better way, or better books?
Pete, check out www.justinguitar.com
a truely amazing website!
oh and have a look at this for the hand cramps;
http://www.guitarnationlive.com/lesson.php?lesson_name=tension
The RGT books definitely work on their own, but it will require you to do a bit of extra reading to support what you learn in the handbook. For example, there are chord shapes and scales but very little on application as it's assumed your tutor will help you in that area. Likewise, the pieces often use a wide range of techniques and tunings without explaining in any real detail how to achieve the desired results.
In terms of entering the examinations themselves, each handbook has an entry form at the back of it and the fees can be found on the website (www.rgt.org). As long as you fill in each form and send it off to be received on or before the closing date then you'll sit your exam - you don't have to go through a tutor to do it.
In terms of which grade to start at, that's really impossible to tell without an assessment of your playing. I've come across people who have been playing for many years but would struggle to pass a grade 4 exam. I'm not suggesting this is the case with you - it really depends on how thoroughly and comprehensively you have learned your instrument.
I could give you a rough break down of what's involved at each grade if you like? I'm also an examiner for RGT/LCM so you'll be getting it on good authority! :-)
Thanks for the replies so far. I'm using a tennis ball now while I'm working nights! At least there are less people around to look at me funny.
With string gauges, I've always used Martin 13's on my main guitar. I did have a phase of using 14's on my older guitar because that's what it was setup with. Would changing down make life easier without changing the sound too much? I do belt the strings quite hard at times so would it mean more breakages? And how low should I go?
Neil, the thing with the lessons I've looked at have been things like taking six lessons before you've got past A and D. I tried to go from the start in case I'd missed anything in the basics which I think is where the lack of motivation came in. I'll go to my local music shop next chance I get and have a look at the RGT books to see which looks most likely to stretch me a bit and start from there. How would you suggest developing? Should I work from where I am on acoustic and start from scratch on electric or is there a certain level at which they diverge? And is trying to do both at once excessive?
I have some basic musical knowledge (played violin to grade 6 but that was 15 years ago) and can just about read music. Are the RGT books good on the theory side too?
Thanks again.
Pete
Hey Pete
14s? Sheesh! SRV used to have 13s on his electric and killed his hands. I assume you're not doing quite so much in the way of bends though. I use 13s, but I have downtuned my guitar to Eb - Eb. That way the tension on the strings is roughly the same as 12s in standard tuning. I have 12s with standard tuning on my 2nd acoustic.
Most people use 11s or 12s. I'd generally advocate 12s for greater fundamental tone and tuning stability. If you're heavy handed, then 11s will ge dragged out of tune fast. 12s, you should be OK with.
Additionally, there aren't too many guitars that are built to take 14s in standard tuning - there's a risk of warping. Same with some guitars if you use 13s - you need to check with the manufacturer that the bracing on the guitar and the thickness of the soundboard is sufficient for you to use them
I would try downtuning to Eb - Eb and using a capo on 1, or going to 12s.
Additionally, really concentrate hard on how hard you need to grip the neck and strings - a lot of people grip harder than they need to, leading to cramp.
Neil, a brief breakdown of the grades at acoustic guitar would be really useful. Many thanks.
Pete, there is a certain amount of crossover between electric and acoustic guitar at all grades. You'll know that playing an Am chord is identical from electric to acoustic to classical, for example. Things begin to change in the higher intermediate grades (around grade 3 or 4 onwards) as morer emphasis is put on solo fingerstyle in the acoustic grades and things like string bending in the electric grades. There is also no lead improvisation in the acoustic syllabus at any grade, whereas there is in the electric syllabus from grade 1 onwards.
The theory side of things is covered in the RGT books, but that is their weakest area if I'm honest. The thing with theory is that it usually takes a book of its own, and is often best taught by way of discussion and then application (which is where a decent qualified tutor comes in, of course). The theory is stuff I can help you with over email if you like?
Your best bet is to do pretty much what you're suggesting, ie. pick up some of the books and have a look at what would stretch you.
Also, I'd have to agree with everything Joe has said regarding string gauge and left hand technique. I use .011 - .052 gauge strings on my acoustic. I sometimes strum pretty hard, but once you reach a certain point in terms of right hand velocity you'll discover that you're actually making the guitar sound worse rather than better by strumming harder. Likewise with left hand technique, if you press too hard everything becomes ever so slightly sharp (not to mention the obvious cramps and potential carpal tunnel syndrome).
Matt, if you send me an email I'll reply to it with what you're asking for. I might even be able to find a PDF of the full syllabus somewhere...
That can be interesting to create the essay writing services but it requires lots of time anyway
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Hi Pete
Just in terms of cramp etc, it might be worth considering your playing position and the guitar's action. I used to get cramp in my left hand, and pain in my right shoulder, both of which were resolved by getting a slightly more sympathetic setup on the guitar, gripping the neck less tightly, and lengthening my strap a bit.
May be worth experimenting a shade... it'll feel a little odd initially, but you should get used to it.
For the left hand, using an old or punctured tennis ball to grip will help - just develop some more strength there. Grip the neck a little less tightly, and consider using lighter strings... or, downtune to Eb, and capo on 1. This will reduce string tension.
Joe
"One, two, three, here we go..."
www.myspace.com/josephhargreaves